Thursday 27 August 2015

SUIT UP LIKE HARVEY SPECTER

<b>Frank Underwood - House of Cards (Kevin Spacey)</b><br>
Frank Underwood is the definition of presidential. Taking a ‘less is more’ approach to power dressing, Underwood’s preference in suiting lies with classic navy and grey, bespoke of course, with either a monochrome textured tie or subtle, complimentary pattern.
With the fifth season of legal drama Suits back on air this week (8.30pm Thursday, Universal Channel, Foxtel) comes the return of one of the best-dressed gents on television today - the indomitable Harvey Specter.
Part of the appeal of Specter (played by Gabriel Macht) is that he makes no apologies for his investment in his appearance, even making a note of its importance to protégé Mike Ross (Patrick J Adams): "People respond to how we're dressed."
Because when it comes to fashion, Specter takes the same approach he does to legal manoeuvring ­– do it well.
Harvey Specter's debonaire ways rubbed off on his Suits protege, Mike Ross (left).
Harvey Specter's debonaire ways rubbed off on his Suits protege, Mike Ross (left). 
So how can you achieve the same slick approach to style?

Effortless, yet powerful

Chris Edwards the general manager of Melbourne-based tailor Oscar Hunt describes Specter's style as "effortless yet powerful".
It is all about the fit with Harvey, and understanding his particular needs.
Chris Edwards
"He is a conservative dresser, yet the cuts and subtle design features mean that he is always noticed and revered," he says.
One of the most notable choices made by Harvey is his preference for three-piece suits in navy, grey or charcoal, paired with a single-breasted vest in the same shade.
This lends an air of deliberate formality, and the uniformity of the fabric helps create a stronger contrast to the shirt. A clean separation of garments helps keep the focus on the wearer rather than what they are wearing.
Specter also has a penchant for wide-peak lapels.
"Peak lapels broaden the shoulders and have a little more sartorial flair than their notch counterparts," Edwards says.
Shirt-wise, Specter deviates from the norm by opting for a wide-cut collar that sits higher than average, allowing him to wear a larger knot in his tie. The shirt-tie combo is also where Specter is most experiemental, often wearing subtle contrasting patterns (but never too obvious) that offset the formality of the outer garments.
<b>Lemond Bishop - The Good Wife (Mike Colter)</b><br>
Not afraid to mix patterns or sport a bold shade of pink, Lemond Bishop’s on-screen presence was all the more menacing for his sartorial panache which included contrasting pattern suits and shirts, textured ties and braces finished off with the flourish of a pocket square.

Sartorial superiority

Most importantly, fit is where "the best closer in New York" really nails his sartorial superiority. Even the most basic suit will look impressive if the fit is spot-on.
"It is all about the fit with Harvey, and understanding his particular needs," Edwards asserts.
"In terms of the fit, the jacket follows the silhouette of his body without being too tight.  He has some structure in the shoulders, giving him that powerful stature, but without looking like an '80s Armani model."
For all his flair, Specter has a rather conservative sense of style overall, eschewing trends or fads in favour of old-school classic tailoring.
"I don't think that Harvey is exceptionally unique in terms of his styling," Edwards says.
"In my opinion, what makes him unique is his understanding of getting the basics absolutely right. His suits are always impeccably tailored and his colour combinations are conservative, yet powerful.  He knows that this combination is far more impactful than a loud suit that fits poorly and is incorrectly styled."
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