Sunday, 6 September 2015

Spring Fashion Week

Spring Fashion Week reveals a wide palette

Colour reigned supreme this year during the men's collections at the annual Melbourne Spring Fashion Week.
Soft pastels, eye-catching prints and bold primary shades of red and blue were sent down the runway from some of the biggest names in Australian menswear.
A snapshot of trends currently available in store, this year's MSFW also saw some extra players take the stage – attendees were treated to a glimpse of Japanese brand Muji's nautical-flavoured casual staples; British label Ted Baker's refined luxury; and the luxe European aesthetic from footwear label Aquila.
A smorgarbord of looks from the Mr runway at Melbourne Spring Fashion Week.
A smorgarbord of looks from the Mr runway at Melbourne Spring Fashion Week. Photo: Lucas Dawson Photography
Overall, the experience taken from the shows was one of immense diversity, with something on offer to cater for all tastes with the amount of designers taking part this year standing as testament to the growing presence of menswear as a powerful player in the fashion stakes.
To help keep you ahead of the style curve this spring, we've compiled a list of some of the most prominent trends spotted at this year's Melbourne Spring Fashion Week including some of our own favourite pieces.

A colourful affair

One of the biggest trends to hit the catwalks this season was prominence of colour, particularly pastels, with pink the hot favourite across the board.
Despite being traditionally considered a more feminine colour, blazers in rose, salmon, and hot pink were seen amongst the collections of M.J. Bale, Jack London and Godwin Charli.
The palette was rounded out with powder blue, smoke and pistachios suits at Brent Wilson plus a large dollop of aqua that showed up in Calibre in the form of a razor-sharp suit and Jack London's must-have biker jacket.
In contrast, Arthur Galan and Ted Baker stuck to the slightly more traditional yet no less vibrant colours of red and bright blue.
Stand-out: The textured pink blazer from Sydney-based label M.J Bale.

Not for the faint hearted

Several designers brought the drama this year, using everything from sequins to brocade in their collections.
At Et Al, the drama came in the form of bold unstructured draping – perfect for layering during trans-seasonal periods. Enveloping jackets and elongated shirting gave created exaggerated silhouettes and a strict palette of black and white stood out in stark contradiction other much brighter collections.
Jayson Brunsdon's brocade jackets and lace shirting from his debut menswear collection felt like the perfect fit for spring's romantic feel. Much like the presence of pink, the use of traditionally feminine details reworked in masculine ways created an intriguing juxtaposition.
The look of a rock star on tour, Jack London's collection was straight out of '60s Britain, making good use of its signature namesake. Fitted sequin jackets, silver boots and leather pants made an interesting contrast to the continuing domination of traditional tailoring.
Stand-out: The sequined "Bowie" jacket by Jack London.

Flower power

In a more literal interpretation of the season, floral prints were also big on the ground this spring.
From M.J Bale's frangipani blazer, Arthur Galan's graphic palm trees to a tropical-inspired suit (worn as separates) at Brent Wilson, there was no mistaking Encyclopaedia Botanica's influence.
At Ted Baker, the allusion was little more subtle, making its way into the trim of a navy blazer while at Jack London, a Hawaiian–inspired shirts in bright red and navy added some extra flair to the theme.
Stand-out: The white-floral print trousers from Brent Wilson.

Cropped and sockless

Hands-down the biggest trend to hit the catwalk however was a cropped trouser teamed with the sock-free look.
Whether it was suits or chinos, pinrolled or deliberately cut short, hems were high and ankles bared, a clear nod to the influential men of Pitti Uomo where the trend became a phenomenon.
While sneakers were still being teamed with suits, the must-have shoe this spring is clearly the loafer, teamed either with shorts or with suits for a casual luxury.
Stand-out: Suede driving shoes in red and caramel at Calibre.
See our bumper photo gallery above for all the key men's looks from Melbourne Spring Fashion Week
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Thursday, 3 September 2015

MEN'S BELT GUIDE

A-Mans-Belt-Guide-How-to-Buy-a-Mens-Belt

Wearing a belt well is one of those litmus tests of fashion:
the simple task, done right, confirms you as a man who knows his clothes.
A mismatch or other error shows that you still need to learn about dressing well.
Fortunately, the basics of good belts aren’t hard to learn, and most are common sense.
The rest is personal taste — and belts allow plenty of room to express it.
Brown Braided Belt rolled
Men’s Belt Basics: Belt Length
Dress belts should have a few inches of leather to the left of the buckle once it’s fastened. Enough to tuck under your first belt loop, or the loop on the belt if it has one, is a good rule of thumb. Err on the side of shortness if you need to, rather than wrapping a long tail of leather around your hip a second time. Casual belts have a little more room for flexibility, but an overly long tail end is always an awkward look.
Belt Tab Notch Distance
Store-bought dress belts are usually measured with a range of pant sizes. Pick your belts two or three sizes larger than your pants to get a good fit. If you wear a 34″ trouser waist, a belt labeled 36″-38″ will probably be in the right neighborhood. Of course, the easiest check is just to try the belt on in the store, at least wrapping it around your waist over your pants. Just remember that it’ll sit a bit tighter when it’s worn properly.
Certain types of casual cloth bands have square brass buckles and a brass cap on the other end to feed through the mechanism. Military surplus stores often have these, and other manufacturers have imitated the style as well. These are traditionally worn “brass on brass,” with no spare belt beyond the buckle once fastened. Since the belt is cloth, you can remove the buckle and trim the cloth down until it’s the right length, then clip the buckle back into place.
If you’re looking for a more accurate fit and quality made belt, check out this belt video review I did on North Carolina’s Anson Belt and Buckle. They use a unique micro-adjust technology that enables adjustments to 1/4 of an inch and the belt’s leather is of very high quality!

Men’s Belt Basics: Belt Buckles
The bigger your belt buckle the less formal it is. Dress belts typically have very small, flat belt buckles (and tend to be narrower belts themselves). Larger buckles with rounded shapes are common on more casual styles. Almost all dress belts will have either a gold-colored or silver-colored finish.
belt buckle types
If you wear male jewelry of any kind — cufflinks, tie tacs, and so forth — the belt should be in the same color family. Silver accents should go with a silver belt buckle and gold with gold. A wedding ring is always an exception — there’s no need to restrict yourself to gold accents for your entire married life. The ring is understood to be a gesture independent of your personal style.
Your casual belts can have almost any kind of buckle you like. Consistency of theme is more important than the shape or size in casual settings. If you like large metal buckles with Western motifs, wear them with a Western-styled outfit rather than a tight urban look. There’s only so much mixing and matching you can get away with.

Men’s Belt Basics: Belt Colors
Leather should always match leather. That rule stays with you in dress and casual wear: brown leather shoes go with a brown leather belt, and black with black. Glossy belts should be paired with highly-polished shoes; matte shoes go with matte belts. If you’re wearing casual shoes that aren’t made of leather, you have more freedom to work with. Cloth shoes can be paired with cloth belts of a different color.
A range of brown and black belts.
Rare animal patterns can be very expensive, but should still be considered casual wear. A very high-quality ostrich-skin belt is too ostentatious for a business setting (but can be very sharp-looking out on the town). Snakeskin and other reptilian patterns are eye-catching options as well — just keep in mind how much attention you want being drawn to your midsection. That’s where people’s eyes will be going if the belt is the most distinctive part of the outfit. The same holds true for brightly-colored belts of more conventional materials.

Men’s Belt Basics: Styles of Buckle
There are a few common ways of approaching the basic task of holding your pants up. Most belts fall into one of these styles:
  • Buckles with a tongue: the belt slides through a loop of metal, and a metal tongue is slipped through a hole in the belt to pin it down.
  • Buckles with a hook: a flat metal (or plastic) plate is attached by slipping a hook on the back of the buckle through the front of the belt.
  • Buckles with a sliding latch: the belt slides through a metal latch, inside which a vertical peg presses the belt into place.
  • Braided belts: use a basic tongue buckle, but the belt is made of a woven leather braid rather than a flat piece of leather with punched holes. The tongue can slip between any two strands.
Brown-Braided-Belt
Men’s Belt Basics: Buying a Belt
Very similar-looking belts sometimes vary widely in cost. The quality of the leather is one common factor: calfskin is the most common material used for belts, and a good belt will have a soft, supple leather. Flex the belt to make sure it hasn’t turned brittle or started to crack. Another good test of leather is to score the back very lightly with your fingernail — if a faint line appears, the leather is still soft and fresh. Old, hard leather will resist your nail.
Construction is the other major factor affecting the price of a belt. Look for small, tight stitching with no loose ends wherever the leather has been sewn. Buckles attached with a snap on the back of the belt can be changed out, while a buckle stitched in place is the only one you can wear with the belt — some men may find the flexibility of a snapped belt worth paying more for, especially in good leather. Belts can be custom-cut at some leather goods stores.
Brand name will also play a factor, but means quite a bit less than the other factors. Your belt is too small for most people to be able to tell at a glance whether it’s designer or not. Spend the money on quality instead.

Men’s Belt Basics: Belts and Jean Labels
Speaking of designer goods, some high-end jeans have a famous label right between two of the belt loops. You may be tempted to leave the belt off, so that the label can be displayed more prominently.
It’s not a great idea in general. Unbelted jeans, even expensive ones, make you look like a slob. Choose a slim belt that lets part of the label show and leave it to other people to notice your fantastic style — or not. If they weren’t in the know you weren’t going to impress them anyway, right?
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Wednesday, 2 September 2015

SUIT TO SUCCESS

 HUGO BOSS ‘Huge/Genius’ 3-Piece Suit Navy $1299, Shirt White $239, Pocket Square Sky Blue $79, Tie Blue Stripe $129, ‘Broders’ Shoe Brown $579, ‘Carlin’ Belt Brown $199.
When all it takes is one-tenth of a second to form an opinion, the importance of creating a professional first impression can't be understated.
Whether meeting with a client, presenting to a room or nailing an interview, appearance is a critical filter. Visual cues – from the cut and fit of your attire to the condition of your shoes - become make-or-break details.
When it comes to making sartorial statements that will have a lasting impact, the suit is the sharpest one a man can make.
The moment you put on a perfectly fitting suit – whatever the occasion – there is a noticeable shift in the way you present yourself. Your posture improves, which in turn helps make you appear more confident. The garment's rich history and refinement adds a subtle sense of authority.
The staff at David Jones understand the impact that a great suit can have. "There is a fine art to suiting. A precision cut, smart fabrication and sharp finishes show an acute attention to detail and can set you apart in the workplace," a spokesperson tells Executive Style.
"First impressions count. Make a strong one with colours, prints and styling that reflect your personality."
With men embracing the nuances of fashion more than ever, they've also become spoiled for choice. The sheer variety of modern suiting means there is not only a suit for everyone, but one for every occasion.
Thomas Rolland, the head image consultant for Melbourne-based stylist A Good Man, advises clients that a good impression is as much about knowing your audience as it is dressing for the occasion.
"It is important to take into consideration the setting you will be in and dressing respectfully for the people you will be meeting with," Rolland says.
"When you are getting ready or are preparing for a certain occasion, be sure to think about where you will be going to, who you will be meeting, what will the other people in the same location be wearing, and what best describes you as a person."ANTHONY SQUIRES ‘Bondi’ Suit Blue $1399, ‘Luka’ Shirt Blue Stripe $149,
Pure Silk Tie Burgundy Check $99.50, Pocket Square Multi $29.50.

Getting the job

A good first impression in an interview could be the vital difference between you and another candidate. It's also a time when the traditional as opposed to the adventurous can make a stronger statement.
WEST END BY SIMON CARTER Textured Suit Navy $499, Cotton Gingham Check Shirt Blue $89.95, GEOFFREY BEENE Pocket Square
Royal&White $24.95 (part of a 2-pack pocket square set), KENNETH COLE Reversible Belt with Plate Buckle Black/Brown $69.95.
Sticking with a classic, single-breasted suit such as those from British designer Paul Smith or Japanese label D'URBAN will help you convey the calm confidence required.

Winning the pitch

From the Monday morning boardroom meeting to walking into a sales pitch, one way to let colleagues or your audience know you have it covered is to look as in-control as you feel.
To achieve this, David Jones suggests choosing a suit that grabs the room's attention. "A three-piece suit, such as those from Hugo Boss, shows an appreciation for tradition," a spokesperosn says.

Leave a lasting impression

Creative industries such as advertising, design and PR have led the way in celebrating individual style within the workplace.
These environments call for style that, while less structured, retains suave professionalism. Saba's "Darren" style in navy check, or Sand's "Sherman Brandon" in sharkskin, teamed with either a crisp white or similarly coloured blue shirt for a tonal effect, will create the perfect balance between personal expression and office appropriate.

Work hard, play harder

Sometimes, dedication to the job requires putting in time outside the traditional 9 to 5.
Entertaining clients after hours or weekend functions lend the chance to break free from corporate rules in favour of a bolder sense of style. Eye-catching checks such as Prince-of-Wales Check or textured finishes offer a relaxed, yet no less refined, aesthetic guaranteed to make you stand out from the crowd.
""A bold check suit, like those by Australian label Calibre, reveals a confident leader," a David Jones spokesperson says.
"Alternatively, West End's textured suit teamed with a gingham shirt shows an affection for 1950s good manners."

Dressing for success

It's interesting to note that despite the increasing casualisation of certain industries and workplaces, the suit remains a powerful mark of class, style and power worn by those at the peak of their professions.
"There's a lot of truth in the saying that you should dress for the job you want and not the job you have", the spokesperson says.
"Nothing says you're serious about making a good impression like the perfect suit."
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